A square (1:1) crop of this image enhances the lines and
directs attention back to singer Pokey LaFarge's face, without any
wasted space or dead areas.
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Instagram
has a feature many consider quite annoying: they only accept square
(1:1) format photos. You would think this would inhibit people from
using the service, but that has not been the case. Though there are
some technical reasons for the requirement I won't go into, I do have
to say that the feature may also be responsible for helping millions
of people improve the quality of their photos. Granted, many people
overdo the various effects Instagram offers, but even working pros do
that.
I'm
talking about the aesthetic value of the square format. For many
years, when medium format cameras tended to dominate advanced and
professional photography, the most common format was 1:1, or in terms
of negative size 2 ¼ inches square. For decades, until the 35mm
SLR* took over, thousands of photographers used Hasselblads or Rollei
TLRs** both in the studio and as their walk around cameras.
Many
people still prefer the square format. In addition to it being a
preset option in most editors, many digital cameras offer the option
of setting the capture format to 1:1. In the case of cameras using an
electronic viewfinder (such as mirrorless) the square format is what
is seen in the viewfinder.
What
is the advantage of square format if nearly all cameras are made with
a default rectangular format, either 3:2 or 4:2? Or, in the case of
many smart phones, the format is even “wide screen” 16:9.
Funny
you should ask.
For
years, Hasselblad advertised the 2 ¼ inch format their cameras used
as the “Ideal Format”. Mainly this was technical, having to do
with more efficient lens designs. It was also practical: square
format cameras could be used in only 1 orientation, so the ability to
turn the camera 90 degrees and still use it was not a design concern.
All this was stuff for engineers to talk about: for most
photographers, the “ideal” part of the format was, and is, the
flexibility it offers. It's also a challenging format, because if not
careful, you can produce very static, boring images with it.
At the time of capture, I already had this final image in mind.
Centering a subject like this actually works well with square format,
if done right.
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First
off, people who try shooting in 1:1 format will find it lends itself
easily to portraiture. With a square image, centering a person in the
frame is no longer a matter of having too much extra space or a
static image. Square portraits often are more appealing because they
are so static: the eye can
stay pretty much focused on the subject, without wandering around to
parts of the image that really don't matter, as can happen with
portraits in other formats. Some portrait photographers love 1:1 so
much that is all they use.
Portraits in 1:1 format can have a "mysterious" feel to them (at least for some people) even when it's not intended. I think part of the reason for this is, for various reasons, square portraits tend to make people focus more on the subject and pay less attention to aspects of composition. This is a subtle, subconscious aspect that doesn't affect all people. When it does occur, it results in portraits of a particularly personal nature.
What
about other subjects?
That
depends a lot on the subject. In many cases, a rectangular format is
going to be preferable (that idea brings up how a simple change in
format can turn a boring shot into an eye catcher, which I will
discuss in another article). Our field of vision is wider than it is
tall, so rectangle formats feel more “natural” to us. Since we
don't like a lot of wasted, dead space in many photos, turning a
camera 90 degrees to capture someone standing, or a building or tree,
is usually for the best.
There
are times, however, where a square format is what works best. When I
end up going square, it can be with forethought (at the time I make
the capture I have already visualized the image as a square crop) or
it can be a “save”. 1:1 cropping was the only way I could get an
image to turn out well.
All
those “rules of composition” such as the “rule of thirds” and
“S Curves” and “Diagonal lines” still apply to square format.
In fact, they can be even more important because the format itself is
so static. Done right, applying these composition techniques within
a square frame can produce a photo with more impact than if the same
subject were presented in a rectangular format. It can have the
viewer saying “Wow” when otherwise they might just nod a bit.
They might not even know why
they find the image so impressive, because the last thing people
notice about a photo is the format/aspect ratio.
Going square with this image allowed me to eliminate some
distracting elements, as well as create better balance between
the grave markers.
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That
all sounds good, but what about landscapes?
Landscapes,
by nature, are assumed to be best photographed and presented in as
wide a format as possible. That's been the case since painting became
formalized, and a 3 foot wide by 2 foot tall canvas was said to be in
“landscape orientation.” As I mentioned above, our normal field
of vision is much wider than it is tall, so we tend to see the world
in wide vistas. With only a few exceptions, portrait oriented photos
of landscapes feel very unnatural to most people.
Square
format offers a unique compromise when it comes to landscapes.
Psychologically, the 1:1 ratio is “neutral” enough so that a
photo what would seem odd in portrait orientation is acceptable as a
square format. In fact, for certain types of landscape composition,
square offers a composition advantage, similar to as with
portraits. Square landscapes certain set themselves apart at photo
competitions where 90% of the entries are in landscape orientation.
They
key to going square with landscapes is to understand that while many
landscapes are about capturing broad vistas and great subject depth,
a square format landscape usually presents a closer, more detailed
view of a scene. Think of capturing a few of the trees, instead of
the entire forest. At times, square is the only way to do that
effectively.
So
now is the time to stop complaining about how Instagram causes you to
fret over how to square crop all those great photos you upload, and
start exploring square as a creative tool. You can do this a couple
of ways. One is “in camera” at the time of capture.
If
you are using a smart phone, you can find apps for both Android and
iPhone that project square format lines, or even just show a square
image, in your camera app. With mirrorless or compact digital
cameras, there are often 1:1 formats available in the menu options
which will likewise show either format lines or just a 1:1 image in
the viewfinder.
DSLRs
are more problematic. Their eye level finders will not display any
sort of guidelines showing how 1:1 looks. Some DSLRs will let you
select 1:1 as a format option, and display it on the LCD during live
view or when reviewing the photo. Don't view this as a a problem:
view it as an opportunity to exercise your ability to pre-visualize a
seen, something the best photographers have learned to do
automatically.
The
other way of going square is in post processing. Often this is the
easier approach because you can move the crop around a bit until it's
just right. Doing so does coast you some image real estate, but not
usually enough to noticeably degrade the image. In fact, editing is a
good place to start going square. Go through your stored images and
experiment. Does cropping 1:1 make a good image better or worse? Does
it take a so so image and give it new life? Spend some time working
with square format, and you will find it improves your photography
overall, not only by broadening the way in which you capture and
present photos, but also in how you assess all your images, even the
ones that are still best presented in a rectangular format.
Eventually
you'll discover that it is hip to be square.
*Single
lens reflex. A camera that uses a single lens, and a rapid-return
mirror to reflect the image into the viewfinder. This as opposed to a
**Twin lens reflex, a camera that uses one lens for exposing the
negative and a second lens to project the image into a viewfinder.
The mirror in a TLR doesn't move, making for a very quiet camera.
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